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The article below describes how I replaced the front suspension top
mounts on my Audi S2 Coupe.
No responsisbilty is accepted for anyone attempting this procedure by following the steps contained in these pages. This is intended as a guide only and all usual precautions should be heeded when attempting work on a motor vehicle. I cannot be held responsible for any damage sustained as a result of using these pages.
WARNING: Spring compressors can be lethal if not secured correctly. Follow instructions supplied with the tool carefully.
Replacement parts needed are as follows:
1. Replacement top strut mounts 857 412 323 B (blue) or 8A0 412 323 D (green)
2. Replacement outer top nut x 2 [N 041 183 5]
3. Replacement tie rod to strut nut x 2 [N 011 189 6]
4. Replacement strut to anti roll bar link rod nut x 2 [N 021 195 5]
5. Replacement slotted nut x 2 [811 412 365] (not essential but recommended)
Tools needed are as follows:
1. VW 524 slotted nut removal tool
2. Slotted socket 22mm - VAG 3078
3. Ball joint separator
4. 17mm socket and spanner (open ended)
5. 10mm spanner
6. 7mm allen key (preferably with long handle)
7. Spring Compressor
First step is to raise the bonnet of the car. You may want to consider disconnecting the battery. When the bonnet
is open, the courtesy light in the boot comes on. Disconnecting the battery will prevent the current drain. An alternative
is to pull fuse #4 from the fusebox.
Before lifting the car off the ground, it is necessary
to loosen the top nut which secures the shock absorber
to the strut turret on the car. Use a 10mm spanner to
remove the two speed nuts on the top protective cover.
Use the 7mm allen key in conjunction with the special
22mm slotted socket to break the torque on the outer
top nut. With such a high resistance, I used a 7mm socket
and extension bar to provide greater strength for the
allen key. This nut should not be reused.
With the outer nut removed the top plate can be removed.
Be careful not to damage the threads of the strut as
it is being removed.
With this part complete, raise the car
and secure on axle stands.Remove the
wheel on the side you are working on.
Undo the 17mm nut which secures the tie
rod end to the strut.This nut cannot be
re-used. Use a separating tool to free
the tie rod end from the strut.
Support the strut from underneath so that
the joint on the anti roll bar link is at
right angles to the strut.Use a 17mm spanner
in conjunction with a 17mm socket to undo the
nut which secures the anti-roll bar link to
the strut housing.Again, this nut should not be
reused. When the support from underneath is
removed, the strut should drop down slightly.
Place the spring compressor on either side
of the spring andgradually compress the
spring at each side until the inner top
plate is free to move and not pressed
against the spring. There should also be
sufficient clearance to lift the top mount
up and over the strut within the confines
of the suspension turret. This is the most
important step and it is essential the spring
compressor is secure before proceeding.
From above, use the 7mm allen key again in conjunction with
the VW524 slotted nut tool to remove the slotted nut. This
should be straightforward as the tightening torque for this
slotted nut is relatively low.
Withdraw the old top mount and place the new one on top of the
inner top plate. The slotted nut should be screwed on - it fits
inside the top mount. Torque for this nut is only 50 Nm.
Refitting is now a reversal of removal. When releasing the tension
in the spring compressor, ensure that the spring is securely
seated against the stops at top and bottom. The outer top nut should
only be tightened with the weight of the car on the ground. Once
fitted, there should be only 3-4 threads exposed of the strut.
|Inner Slotted Nut||50 Nm|
|Tie Rod to strut Nut||30 Nm|
|Anti Roll bar link rod to strut Nut||40 Nm|
|Outer top Nut||60 Nm|
|Wheel Bolt||110 Nm|