My Audi S2 index
The car has not been worked on for some time but has been clocking up the miles gradually. Main reason for this was my daily use car, a 1987 Coupe quattro, underwent some major work. A complete suspension rebuild took a couple of weeks of spare time. Also discovered a leaking fuel filter and a hole in the exhaust while doing this. Now that this has been completed, I've had a chance to complete some overdue work on the S2.
A 20000 mile service was carried out. The work required at servicing intervals can be found on the service data sheet here.
In addition to the service, I also discovered a couple of faults which needed fixing.
The throttle cut off valve was replaced. It was slightly damaged due to rubbing on the black plastic headlamp cover. This is fairly common on the S2.
The idle stabilser valve was removed to be cleaned. The revs would often bounce down and back up when cold during town running. The throttle potentiometer contacts were also cleaned at the same time. This seems to have cleared the problem.
Inspection during the service revealed a few problems which will be tackled over the coming weeks.
1. Rear wishbone bushes - excessive movement
2. Rear anti roll bar - excessive play at drop links
3. Rear exhaust box too close to driveshaft - worn hangers
4. Weeping rear differential seal on rhs
5. Power steering pump has leaking plug.
6. Water hose to turbo showing signs of leakage.
I've also changed the inner rear lamps to 10w bulbs. My previous car had these and it makes the car easier to see in wet weather. My friend had commented that following was difficult across Belgium (where it always seems to rain) due to the spray.
Managed to investigate the afterrun function or lack of. The afterrun sensor is on the water rail below the inlet manifold, By removing the two wires connected to this sensor and touching them together ( be very careful not to let them touch anything else), the fan and auxiliary water pump should start up. If this does happen, then this indicates the system is functional. It also implies that the sensor is faulty.
I still had a known working sensor from my previous car so have fitted this.
Method is described here, although it was made more difficult due to being unable to remove the top radiator hose from the water rail.
Rear wishbone bushes replaced. Method can be found here.
At the same time, the rear ball joints were also replaced. This was mainly due to the old ones getting damaged during removal.
Replaced the exhaust hangers for the rear box. It was fairly straightforward. Prising off the old hangers was simple enough using screwdrivers. Fitting the new ones was quite tricky as they need to be stretched. I used an old bicycle brake cable looped through the hanger to pull each one down enough while supporting the exhaust box from underneath with a jack. I've included a short write up here.
The rear anti roll bar drop links were replaced. Method used is here. While doing this job I also discovered the handbrake was not working on one side. I slackened off the adjuster under the car. The caliper was moving relatively freely although the cam was not returning properly. I've moved the adjuster back further to allow the handbrake to work correctly although the lever is now quite loose.
What should have been a straightforward job turned in to a nightmare. While doing the drop links for the rear anti-roll bar, I noticed the bar itself had a fair amount of play due to the bushes.
The bushes are held on to the subframe by means of two brackets, each of which is held in by two bolts. The torque on the bolts is low, but they come prefitted with loctite and the bush expands as the bracket moves as you undo the bolts.
Suffice to say, that out of 4 bolts to remove, only 1 was successful. Two of the bolts sheared off in the subframe. The last bolt was even worse. The thread on the subframe broke free which meant the bolt was just spinning.
There was only one way out of this and that meant removing the rear subframe. This is not as difficult as it may sound. The subframe itself is held to the car by 4 bolts - one at each corner. The other parts to remove are the 4 wishbone / subframe bolts/nuts, the rear drop-link nuts, rear tie rod nuts and the rear diff mount bolts/nuts. I actually had the subframe off within an hour. I supported the rear diff with a jack and some blocks of wood.
I was able to get the subframe repaired by a local engineering shop. The sheared bolts were removed and the threads re-tapped. The broken thread was welded back on to the subframe. I will be keeping a close eye on this as welding is not approved on the subframe.
With the subframe off, it made sense to replace the subframe bushes. Also the rear diff mounts had seen better days and the rear tie rods were siezed solid so these were also replaced.
I've written a seperate article on doing this job although there are few pictures. You can review this page here. Refitting everything went fairly smoothly and I just had to get the car aligned. This is critical since the rear subframe is adjustable to allow for differences in the bodyshells. The alignment for the rear went ok but the front was discovered out at the same time so new front tie rods were needed and the passenger side front ball joint needed reset.
Front tie rod replacement was relatively straightforward.
As soon as this was finished, the rear driveshaft oil seal was replaced. Method is described here.
Long time no updates. Took the car to Germany for quattro 25 celebrations in Ingolstadt. No major dramas encountered although the front brakes are now completely knackered. Major vibration from high speed. I suspect the Nurburgring laps this year spelled the end of these discs.
Unfortunately, nothing will get done for at least another 2 months although I will be changing the brakes back to standard as I picked up genuine discs and pads for £50 earlier this year.
I've picked up another car to keep me busy during the winter - a 1991 Audi 90 sport quattro 20v. This car used to be owned by my mate who now drives an S4. It's been off road for almost 3 years so needs some work before going on the road again.
You can read all about the progress of this car on here.
When the brakes get done, I'll also do the front shocks. I picked up a pair of RS2 front shocks which for some reason are half the price of S2 items.